Headliner and Thinsulate

Removing the headliner makes insulating above a breeze. All you need for tools are an 7mm socket and a set of trim removal tools like this. With the following steps it only took about 10 minutes to remove and same to re-install.

  1. Pop out the 3 orange clips holding up the rear center of the headliner.

  2. Pry out and put aside 2 plastic trays in center of headliner.

  3. Pry down overhead console. You can see rear clips once you have the 2 plastic trays out.

  4. Take a photo of the wiring in the overhead console in case you get stuck putting it back together.

  5. Disconnect the 3 wiring connectors and various clips to remove the overhead console.

  6. Remove the 7mm bolt that is exposed when you drop and detach the overhead console.

  7. Remove the 2 7mm bolts on each side of the overhead tray

  8. Pry out the 2 plastic plates hiding the sun visor bolts

  9. Remove the 7mm bolts holding the sun visors up and twist out the sun visors making sure to disconnect the vanity mirror light wires if you have them.

  10. Using a long flat screwdriver, pop out the 4 circular plastic covers hiding the front headliner bolts by pressing on the side of their clips. Remember where each cover came from as they aren't all the same.

  11. Remove the 4 7mm bolts exposed by removing the 4 circular plastic covers.

  12. Unclip the last orange clip at the front and pull down the headliner.

  13. Re-installing is basically the reverse but easier as the circular plastic covers just push back in.

There's a decent video on this here.

Headliner removal takes only 10 minutes when you know what to do. Pop out those orange clips and put them in the headliner so they can be pushed back on.

There's a lot going on in that overhead console. Everything came off with no broken clips.

Here's the dropped headliner showing the 4 circular bolt cover holes.

Noico installed above the headliner.

Put some Noico and Thinsulate in these side cubby holes.

I'm always careful not to touch the airbags when working around them.

Thinsulate installed. above headliner. We had 300sqft of Thinsulate (2 x 30' rolls @ 5' wide) and were able to put 2 layers above the headliner in our high roof, long (148") van.

Make a hole for the roof antenna wire.

About half way done.

Ready to pull 5" wide Thinsulate strips through the roof beams.

After we re-installed the headliner we were ready to insulate the rest of the van using Thinsulate and 3M90 spray adhesive. With 3M90 you apply to the Thinsulate and the surface it is attaching to. This goes quite fast with a decent pair of scissors until you get to all of the weird nooks and crannies. We used a piece of wire and some string to pull 60" Thinsulate strips of various widths through the roof rails and various other cavities in the van. Make sure to get everywhere. 2 30' rolls of SM600L was the perfect amount for our high roof, long (148") van.

Things go fast at this stage and you soon notice the difference in muffled sound and less heat getting into the van.

Filled these areas with scraps.

Passenger door with cover removed ready for insulating. Good video on this here.

Adding Thinsulate to the cab doors. Video here.

Make sure the door mechanism functions while insulating the sliding door.

Talking is very muffled at this point. That will go away when the Thinsulate is paneled over.

Rear doors are straight forward. Only passenger rear door has a plastic sheet you need to lift up to insulate behind.

We plan on sleeping East-West so we need to use as much of the rear wall indents as possible.